Hermes XII Kröver Nacktarsch. The name itself conjures images of playful defiance and intriguing complexity. It's a moniker that speaks volumes about the wine it represents: a Riesling of exceptional quality, beloved by wine critics but often overlooked by the wider public. This article will explore the fascinating world of this specific Riesling, delving into its history, production, characteristics, and the reasons behind its cult following, while also examining the broader context of Kröver Nacktarsch wines and the esteemed German Riesling tradition.
The name itself, "Kröver Nacktarsch," translates roughly from German to "Kröv's bare bottom." This somewhat cheeky appellation refers to the uniquely shaped vineyard situated in the village of Kröv, on the steep slopes of the Mosel River in Germany. The vineyards, known as Vineyards Kröver Nacktarsch, are characterized by their incredibly steep, south-facing slopes, offering optimal sun exposure and creating a microclimate ideal for growing Riesling grapes. These extreme slopes, challenging to cultivate, contribute significantly to the exceptional quality of the grapes produced, demanding meticulous hand-harvesting and a level of dedication rarely seen in mass-produced wines.
This challenging terroir is the foundation upon which the legendary Hermes XII Kröver Nacktarsch Riesling is built. While the specific "XII" might refer to a particular plot within the larger Nacktarsch vineyard or a specific vintage blend, the core essence remains consistent: a representation of the best that the Kröver Nacktarsch vineyard can offer. The wines produced here, whether from Bernd Hermes Kröver Nacktarsch Riesling Lieblich, 2012 Bernd Hermes Kröver Nacktarsch Riesling Spätlese, or the more recent vintages like the 2019 Gut Hermes Riesling Kröver Nacktarsch feinherb and 2021 Bernd Hermes Kröver Nacktarsch Riesling Spätlese, consistently exhibit a remarkable level of finesse and complexity.
The Mosel region, where Kröv is located, is renowned for its slate soils. These slate soils, rich in minerals, impart a distinct minerality to the Riesling grapes, lending a characteristic stony, flinty note to the resulting wines. This minerality is a defining feature of Mosel Rieslings, and the Kröver Nacktarsch wines are no exception. The steep slopes also contribute to the wines' concentration and intensity, resulting in wines with remarkable depth and complexity.
The varying levels of sweetness, from the feinherb (slightly off-dry) to the lieblich (medium-sweet) and Spätlese (late harvest, often sweeter), reflect the different ripeness levels of the grapes at harvest. The Spätlese designation, in particular, indicates a selection of fully ripe, even slightly overripe, grapes, resulting in wines with intense fruit flavors and a luscious sweetness balanced by the characteristic Mosel acidity. This acidity, a crucial element of Riesling wines, provides a refreshing counterpoint to the sweetness, preventing the wine from becoming cloying. It also contributes to the wine's aging potential, allowing the wines to evolve gracefully over time.
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